The 70-mile ride into Roswell on highway NM-246 was perfection. Smooth asphalt, about one car per hour, and crisp air allowed me to fully enjoy the landscape. About halfway through, the insects started to multiply. Grasshoppers, crickets, and a variety of other unknowns littered the highway, both dead and alive. It seemed the living were feeding on those who had been run over. At first I tried avoiding them but after awhile I realized my efforts were futile.
Yesterday and today, Roswell was holding their annual Chili Cheese Festival. I didn't see much cheese but there were plenty of chilies sold, both raw and dried. I tried a funnel cake for the first time in over a decade and although it was tasty my stomach is still a little upset. The local boy scouts were in awe of my endeavor as was the volunteer from the Roswell Womens Democratic Club.
Continuing eastward I was unsure of my evening destination. About twenty miles out of Roswell the land became almost flat and after another twenty it became completely flat. I managed another 70 miles and entered Tatum with just enough time to grab a bite well after sundown and just before the town's only cafe closed for the night. When the owner heard from her son that I was cycling, she made me eat more, ripped the bill up in front of me, and insisted I camp out back. I told her thanks (after still trying to pay) and that I would see her again at 6am when she opened for the day.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
A day of twists on a straight road
My ride out of San Antonio, NM began before dawn. By mid-morning I was overlooking the Trinity Site where the world's first atomic bomb detonated in 1945. Memories of my visit to Hiroshima last November flashed before me and I paused to reflect how the world must have been like then.
Entering Carrizozo, I took a spin around The Street to see old buildings and colorfully painted burros. The visitors center was inside a caboose and I dropped into Elsie's for a quick bite. The owner was a proud Airborne vet during the Vietnam War and trained the special forces how to use unique flat bows (and arrows) that smartly tuck inside a small pack.
In Capitan, I planned to get some food and continue. However after learning from a local Buddhist that Tibetan Monks VenoDhondup Tsering and Yeshi Choedup were in town and were holding a special ceremony a few hours later, I decided to stick around. While I waited I managed to do a load of laundry and take a much needed shower at the local RV park.
After the ceremony, the half moon allowed me to fit in an additional 16 miles and I set up camp late just past Encinoso.
Entering Carrizozo, I took a spin around The Street to see old buildings and colorfully painted burros. The visitors center was inside a caboose and I dropped into Elsie's for a quick bite. The owner was a proud Airborne vet during the Vietnam War and trained the special forces how to use unique flat bows (and arrows) that smartly tuck inside a small pack.
In Capitan, I planned to get some food and continue. However after learning from a local Buddhist that Tibetan Monks VenoDhondup Tsering and Yeshi Choedup were in town and were holding a special ceremony a few hours later, I decided to stick around. While I waited I managed to do a load of laundry and take a much needed shower at the local RV park.
After the ceremony, the half moon allowed me to fit in an additional 16 miles and I set up camp late just past Encinoso.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
A month of reflection
On this day four weeks ago I was rather unsure what I was doing. I knew was there was a lot of pedaling involved and a wide open road ahead of me. I knew I would be homesick at times, would have many first-time experiences, and face some adversities. All of those have proven true yet I feel that even though I'm about halfway through, the best is yet to come.
Yesterday I thought about contacting the governors of each state I'm passing through for support of the campaign. In the upcoming week I will be drafting letters to them and hopefully while this first month will be known as the "month of adjustment," these next four weeks may be referred to as the "month of action."
It appears many Americans aren't ready for the clean energy revolution although science says the time is past due. We need solid leadership on the issue from the very top. Although bold decisions and swift actions might not appear popular at the present time, ultimately only the next generation will be able to decide and hopefully then, it won't be too late.
Yesterday I thought about contacting the governors of each state I'm passing through for support of the campaign. In the upcoming week I will be drafting letters to them and hopefully while this first month will be known as the "month of adjustment," these next four weeks may be referred to as the "month of action."
It appears many Americans aren't ready for the clean energy revolution although science says the time is past due. We need solid leadership on the issue from the very top. Although bold decisions and swift actions might not appear popular at the present time, ultimately only the next generation will be able to decide and hopefully then, it won't be too late.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Bienvenidos a Mexico Nuevo
I was surprised how mild this morning was and was back on the road as the sun was rising. The forty miles to Springerville through Apache National Forest was the icing on the cake of my northern Arizona tour. A crisp, clear morning provided vibrant colors, calm lakes, and an exciting ascent to the top of White Mountain. My jaw dropped when I read the elevation was at 9120 feet. I wasn't even panting!
Once in Springerville, I found the post office and picked up a letter from home using General Delivery for the first time. I think it's so neat that you can mail things to people without an actual address! I might now mail some things to myself in a different city that I won't need until later in the trip. (Or is that cheating?)
Thirteen miles brought me to the New Mexican border and thirty-three more to a salad bar in Quemado. After stuffing myself with canned veggies, I utilized the last hour of daylight and made it to Pie Town for a century (100 miles in a day). Everything was closed when I arrived so I discovered Jackson Park and set up camp without hassle.
Reflecting on today's ride, I noticed two things unique to New Mexico already: (1) some of the largest motorhomes known to man - one being the size of some hotel lobbies, and (2) more drivers waving - including truckers and bikers! I hope this trend of soft rolling hills, light wind, and friendly folk continues throughout the state.
Once in Springerville, I found the post office and picked up a letter from home using General Delivery for the first time. I think it's so neat that you can mail things to people without an actual address! I might now mail some things to myself in a different city that I won't need until later in the trip. (Or is that cheating?)
Thirteen miles brought me to the New Mexican border and thirty-three more to a salad bar in Quemado. After stuffing myself with canned veggies, I utilized the last hour of daylight and made it to Pie Town for a century (100 miles in a day). Everything was closed when I arrived so I discovered Jackson Park and set up camp without hassle.
Reflecting on today's ride, I noticed two things unique to New Mexico already: (1) some of the largest motorhomes known to man - one being the size of some hotel lobbies, and (2) more drivers waving - including truckers and bikers! I hope this trend of soft rolling hills, light wind, and friendly folk continues throughout the state.
Unexpected but necessary delay
When I initially opened my eyes this morning, it was simply too cold to get started. After resting for an additional hour I made myself tough out the chill. Eleven slow miles later landed me back on pavement and I beelined to the closest cafe to warm up and eat up. Texas-toast French toast was the special and it was scrumptious.
Continuing up to Show Low past a few construction sites, I noticed my rear derailer was acting up. Cycle Mania is the bike shop in town and the guys there squared my bike away without delay. I left with what felt almost like a new bike thanks to a new saddle and derailer.
After missing almost a half-day of riding I ended up in the Fort Apache Reservation after dark and found a dark corner outside a chapel to close my eyes. Falling asleep proved difficult thanks to the countless barking dogs. Staying asleep wasn't easy either after a couple coyotes came up to investigate my area. I was able to shoo them away and grab another hour before daybreak.
Continuing up to Show Low past a few construction sites, I noticed my rear derailer was acting up. Cycle Mania is the bike shop in town and the guys there squared my bike away without delay. I left with what felt almost like a new bike thanks to a new saddle and derailer.
After missing almost a half-day of riding I ended up in the Fort Apache Reservation after dark and found a dark corner outside a chapel to close my eyes. Falling asleep proved difficult thanks to the countless barking dogs. Staying asleep wasn't easy either after a couple coyotes came up to investigate my area. I was able to shoo them away and grab another hour before daybreak.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Legs of steel
After placing three more patches (eight now in all) on my trailer tube and passing the largest roadkill thusfar (a horse), I dropped into a cafe in Strawberry to try to reinflate my spirits. I ordered a slice of chocolate pecan pie and found in the phonebook a bike shop fifteen miles up the road in Payson.
At the bike shop I not only bought a new tube and patch kit, the owner tossed in an additional tube for free with some helpful info about what to expect up the road.
After a climb up to 7700 feet (from below 5000' in Payson), I took a quick dip in Willow Lake on the rim and continued to Forest Lakes where I bought canned dinner and asked for directional advice. The shopkeep told me of another washboard road (as if I hadn't learned my lesson already) to Heber via Black Canyon Lake. There I found a great campsite in Sitgreaves National Park and passed out surrounded by pine trees and looking into the star-filled sky.
At the bike shop I not only bought a new tube and patch kit, the owner tossed in an additional tube for free with some helpful info about what to expect up the road.
After a climb up to 7700 feet (from below 5000' in Payson), I took a quick dip in Willow Lake on the rim and continued to Forest Lakes where I bought canned dinner and asked for directional advice. The shopkeep told me of another washboard road (as if I hadn't learned my lesson already) to Heber via Black Canyon Lake. There I found a great campsite in Sitgreaves National Park and passed out surrounded by pine trees and looking into the star-filled sky.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
The adventure never ends
After quickly packing up camp this morning, I continued my desent through Oak Canyon passing Slide Rock State Park. I was truly awed by the morning sun displaying vibrant colors off the cliffs that on more than one occaision I had to stop to take it all in. Once I reached Sedona proper, I found an open cafe, grabbed a cup of joe, and called home for the first time.
Cottonwood was the next town and my plan was to pick up a few snacks for the rest of the day. Just before reaching the grocery store, I noticed a sign on the side of a Mexican restaurant that said "Sunday champagne brunch." I asked the man outside what the details were and learned it was all-I-could eat and drink for $8.95. How could I say no? After quickly grabbing a seat on the porch I began to gorge on enchiladas, fruit, papas y queso, and flan like it was going to disappear. About an hour into the feast, my stomach began to ache and begged me to quit. After initially ignoring the request by eating even more chips and salsa, I finally paid the bill and hobbled over to a nearby tree to sit for a half hour until I could move again.
Back on the bike, I left Cottonwood with food being the last thing on my mind. Old town Camp Verde looked nice but with no reason to stop I continued east. At Clear Creek, I took a break at the RV park, bought a cold one, and chatted for a half hour with a couple reidents about the surrounding area. The shopkeep informed me about Fossil Creek nearby which was along a dirt road "shortcut" to Strawberry, my next destination. He insisted my bike could handle the washboard road and it would cut the milage in half from 50+ miles to about 26.
Turning off the highway I wondered if this was the best idea. This was my first time going on an unpaved road this trip and I just prayed that my trailer would make it. If I got stuck, a 20-mile walk wouldn't be impossible.
Reaching Fossil Creek was like finding a desert oasis. The tourqoise water was flowing strong and when I jumped in I immediately forgot about any previous concerns. But at this point I was losing daylight and began the ascent out of the canyon. It lasted well past sundown and with a sliver moon setting, I began to feel like I was on another planet. Looking back, the climb out on the dirt road was mighty dangerous. With steep cliffs and no lights other than the stars above, I feel lucky to have gotten out of there with just a flat tire on the trailer.
I'm camped out now just outside Strawberry but still in Tonto National Forest. I'm too tired to fix the flat tonight, so instead, I close my eyes and listen to the mountain lions screaming from every direction. I guess it's a good thing I didn't stop for any snacks.
Cottonwood was the next town and my plan was to pick up a few snacks for the rest of the day. Just before reaching the grocery store, I noticed a sign on the side of a Mexican restaurant that said "Sunday champagne brunch." I asked the man outside what the details were and learned it was all-I-could eat and drink for $8.95. How could I say no? After quickly grabbing a seat on the porch I began to gorge on enchiladas, fruit, papas y queso, and flan like it was going to disappear. About an hour into the feast, my stomach began to ache and begged me to quit. After initially ignoring the request by eating even more chips and salsa, I finally paid the bill and hobbled over to a nearby tree to sit for a half hour until I could move again.
Back on the bike, I left Cottonwood with food being the last thing on my mind. Old town Camp Verde looked nice but with no reason to stop I continued east. At Clear Creek, I took a break at the RV park, bought a cold one, and chatted for a half hour with a couple reidents about the surrounding area. The shopkeep informed me about Fossil Creek nearby which was along a dirt road "shortcut" to Strawberry, my next destination. He insisted my bike could handle the washboard road and it would cut the milage in half from 50+ miles to about 26.
Turning off the highway I wondered if this was the best idea. This was my first time going on an unpaved road this trip and I just prayed that my trailer would make it. If I got stuck, a 20-mile walk wouldn't be impossible.
Reaching Fossil Creek was like finding a desert oasis. The tourqoise water was flowing strong and when I jumped in I immediately forgot about any previous concerns. But at this point I was losing daylight and began the ascent out of the canyon. It lasted well past sundown and with a sliver moon setting, I began to feel like I was on another planet. Looking back, the climb out on the dirt road was mighty dangerous. With steep cliffs and no lights other than the stars above, I feel lucky to have gotten out of there with just a flat tire on the trailer.
I'm camped out now just outside Strawberry but still in Tonto National Forest. I'm too tired to fix the flat tonight, so instead, I close my eyes and listen to the mountain lions screaming from every direction. I guess it's a good thing I didn't stop for any snacks.
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