Saturday, September 19, 2009

#1 place I will return to

Today was amazing. I woke up late and cruised into Flagstaff for a large breakfast and checked out the events for the day in the local paper. Just a few blocks away was the local synagogue and I made it over in time for Rosh Hashana services. The congregation greeted me with open arms and I left feeling spiritually renewed!

For lunch I found an all-you-can eat salad bar and downed a half-pitcher of some ale. A thunderstorm was passing by so I killed time on the internet while charging my dead phone battery. Exciting.

I headed over to Old Flagstaff and found a really cool community there. I spent happy hour with three Hopi Indians while my rear wheel was being trued across the street.

Pedaling into the dusk, I quickly found myself in Oak Canyon. This downhill bike ride was the second best I've ever encountered (behind the Death Road of Bolivia). Seriously, to anyone reading this, before you die: fly to Flagstaff and ride downhill to Sedona. The smells and sights will remind you that you are ALIVE!

Over and out from some random spot between Oak Creek and AZ-89. Truly a blissful locale....

Friday, September 18, 2009

The Painted Desert

I woke up this morning with every intention of arriving in Flagstaff this afternoon. However the desert called me off the highway and I ventured on a 36-mile detour through Coconino National Forest via Wupatki and Sunset Crater National Monuments. As I dropped into the basin my jaw dropped at the beauty. After taking a brief moment to capture it on film, I was back to cruising down hundreds of feet. All of a sudden a large gust of hot wind nearly pushed me off my bike while I was moving over 30 mph. I somehow maintined control and averted a true catastrophe!

Now I'm camping just off the highway and am looking forward to Flagstaff tomorrow. I should arrive early and plan on leaving late. I sent emails last night to the local media outlets but so far no dice.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Mile 1300

After a huge breakfast at Jacobs Lake and a small snack at Marble Canyon, I ended today's tour at The Gap which is on the Navajo Reservation. The only store in "town" closed three minutes after my arrival so I was happy to pick up a couple bananas and chocolate milk. Upon checkout, I asked the nice lady if she knew any good places to camp and she said right behind the store was fine. I double checked with the man of the property and he agreed that I could post up for the evening.

After a long chat with the man and two of his daughters, I retired for the evening and began crunching some numbers. It turns out that I have pedaled exactly 1300 miles! To put this into perspective, the route from the Canadian border to the Mexican border via WA, OR, & CA is 1378 miles. That is a route I hope to do one day. I guess I should allow three weeks for it! 1300 miles from now should be close to Austin, TX. Hopefully in less than three weeks though because of less elevation changes.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Welcome to the Grand Canyon State

This morning's cup of coffee made me realize the morning ritual takes on a whole new meaning when on a bike trip. Since it's impossible to grab and go pedal, I usually end up chatting with the locals and procuring valuable information on the upcoming ride such as the elevation and good places to rest.

Stopping for lunch at Pipe Springs National Monument, I learned how to make arrowheads and chatted with an old-school bike tramp. We exchanged stories and I powered past Fredonia and spent the night at La Ferve Lookout in the Kaibab National Forest. At one point late in the afternoon I was confused why I was moving so slow even though the ground appeared level. Was my break catching? Surely I didn't add any weight to my pack. Maybe my legs were just really tired. Finally I figured out the ground was not level and I had been gradually climbing 1000 feet over the course of several miles. Phew!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

I am Zion

At the service station this morning drinking coffee, I noticed a petition arguing against the establishment of a new local wind farm. I need to check out their website windfarmfactsutah.org to get my facts straight I guess.

Stopping briefly in La Verkin to get some groceries, I made it to Zion in time to get a days worth of hiking at the emerald pools and the narrows while also resting on the park shuttle and taking in the splendor. I discovered that it was hard for me to fully relax because of the guilt for not using the beautiful day to ride and all of the tourists around me. This realization lead me to conclude that I will skip the Grand Canyon on this trip.

I camped that night along the Virgin River and had a quick dip before bed. The cool water felt great!

Monday, September 14, 2009

They used to call it Fort Kinarra

This morning I took it easy and enjoyed a complimentary breakfast (thanks to some nice hotel staff), used the lobby computer, and did my laundry while taking care of some bills. Yay!

The wind still had not subsided and I only made it 10 miles or so before calling it quits in Kinarraville. The local RV park let me shower and use the hot tub and camp on the front lawn. Before settling in for the evening, I went on a fantastic canyon hike to Kinarra Falls. A definite highlight of the trip thusfar, it will be tough for Zion to top. Steep red cliffs and complete isolation in a pristine environment made this hike unforgettable. No other human (or trace of humans) could be spotted and I couldn't help but revert to a childlike state of wonder and awe.

Falling asleep that night I could hear the park owners arguing through the thin walls. Life is to short for such anger, I thought, although easy for me to observe.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

And on the 8th day, I rest.

Today was all about the headwind. Starting off of Frisco Summit (which I later learned is haunted), I battled through Milford and Minersville and eventually ended up in Cedar City. Although a slower day, I was happy to eat a huge dinner and find a cheap place to camp on town. Tomorrow I think I will take the day off.

Outside of Milford, I did have the brief opportunity to check out the new wind farm being put up and chat with a few of the workers. Milford already has a geothermal plant so I'm guessing they won't be using too much coal in the future!